Rails are sold in pairs only in order to assure a correct fit. The price is for a pair of side rails (one for each side of the bed). Please inquire should you have any questions or concerns. Please measure the distance from the two pins in your headboard/footboard to confirm that they are 2" apart from the center to determine that our rail hook plates will fit appropriately. The industry-standard hook plates incorporated into both ends of the rails will probably fit any headboard/foot board manufactured within the last 40 years. Queen and King size "Sleigh" type beds tend to use rails that are for Standard Twin or Full size beds. These are for Standard Queen and King size beds, not "Sleigh" type beds. Please measure your current rails before ordering. Sturdy Construction: 1.5" x 1.5" x 82" x 12 gauge side rails. Included Hook-On Headboard & Footboard Brackets. Rail Length: 82" (Overall Length does not include the hooks which are inserted into the headboard/footboard). Versatile: Twin XL, Full XL, Queen, and King in Size. These rails are quality made with pride in the United States under strict quality control guidelines. The side rails measure 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" (vertically) x 82" long x 12 gauge. The bed rails feature very sturdy construction. These bedCLAW bed rails will attach to hook-on type headboards and footboards. The changes took about 2 hours to complete.These bedCLAW bed rails attach to your headboard and footboard which continue to provide support for your bed. I had to trim the shelf against the headboard nearly 3", but the whole setup is more snug than it was with my original design. The change is not visible from the outside, but the increase in strength should keep anything from coming loose in the future. After getting five screws in each bearing plate, I stretched the 3" x 7" tie plates across the inside of the rail to stiffen the joints. After that, it was a matter of drilling through the wood and plate (but not the outside face) and securing it will #10 metal screws. Then, I had to trim the expansion rails to remove the area where the pins were and widen the kerf enough to fit the 1/8" bearing plates and deep enough to snug up the old and new rails. Rather than repeat the same mistakes, I headed over to Lowes and picked up some Simpson strong ties (four 3" x 3" Bearing plates, and four 3" x 7" tie plates) I removed the hook portion from the old bed rails by drilling from the outside with a small diameter bit and forcing the retaining pins out. Full Mattress 54" x 75" Queen Mattress 60" x 80" Update: Well, it almost worked.The pins I was hoping would work in broke sending the bed into a slanted position. It has really turned out to be a great addition. We can charge our phones, store books, glasses, etc. It sits about 4" below the mattress and allows you to lay your arm under your pillow without it falling asleep. The additional area at the head of the bed was made into a curved shelf resting on triangular plywood posts, complete with an electrical outlet. The finished dimensions of the opening are 60-1/2" (a little wider than it should be, 3/4" plywood was used under the box spring) x 90" (including the curve on the headboard). The extension of the frame was a bit more difficult because the headboard was designed to curve around the mattress. The rails use the same bed hook design as the original. I am hoping that as we use the bed, it will loosen the pin holes a bit to mate up the two pieces better. As you can see if the photos, the original rails sit a little proud of the extensions. The blanks were make up of face-glued Yellow Pine that was shaped with a bandsaw and belt sander. After a couple attempts, I came up with this result. I had the idea to extend the frame (width and length) to accommodate the mattress we used. We had an "antique" bed frame that was setup for a Full sized mattress instead of the Queen each of us had.
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